There are few more appealing sights to wake up to than the vision of the serene San Giorgio Maggiore basking in early-morning sunshine across the Venice lagoon. From our base at the stylish waterfront Hotel Londra Palace, we were bang opposite this stunning Palladian church set on a little island at the mouth of the Grand Canal. Opening the curtains in our room, my wife and I decided to make it our first port of call.

One of the joys of this intriguing city is that you’re never far from the the main attractions and a little exploration can reveal many other treasures. The view from the top of San Giorgio’s is among them. It’s a great way to get your bearings, so we caught a vaporetto waterbus across to the church and took the lift up the bell tower.

And what a vista awaited us! Our 360-degree panorama gave us St Mark’s Square, the Basilica and Doge’s Palace in all their glory and a fine view of the canals and countless islands.

Nowhere in the world is quite like Venice. Its magnificent buildings were built on timber piles driven into a swampy lagoon and the network of tiny streets and winding canals has changed little over the centuries.

From the Middle Ages the city was at the heart of a great naval and trading empire and the nobility and well-heeled merchants built the grand houses, or palazzi, we see today. Some date back to the Byzantine period of the 12th and 13th centuries, with Gothic, Renaissance and ornate Baroque styles arriving later.

For the best view of these historic gems, we hopped on a No. 1 vaporetto to meander along the length of the Grand Canal. This is the main thoroughfare, buzzing with vaporetti, barges and gondolas.

gothic masterpiece

Stepping off at St Mark’s, we visited Venice’s two mustsee sights. The Doge’s Palace is a Gothic masterpiece with sumptuous decorations and lavish artworks by Tintoretto and other Italian masters.

The awe-inspiring Basilica San Marco (St Mark’s Basilica) dates back to the 11th century, its interior an extravaganza of mosaics, marble and gold. We went up the church’s adjacent bell tower for another fabulous view across St Mark’s Square below and city rooftops.

Bagging a table outside Caffe Florian in the piazza, we had a cappuccino and slice of cake and listened to the orchestra. It cost a robust 20 euros but was worth it.

The local tourist board used to advise visitors to “get lost in Venice”. We did just that, wandering around the maze of narrow streets and over canal bridges, stopping off for the odd ice cream or refreshing beer at tiny bars favoured by the locals.

It was always a pleasure to discover you had not the faintest idea where you were. We explored the quiet waterways and shopping streets of Cannaregio, in the northwest of the city, and Castello, one of the oldest parts.

At every turn we encountered a Baroque church, faded palazzo, delightful square or bar serving drinks and food at a fraction of the city-centre’s high prices.

When you’ve had your fill of the history, head for the beach. It’s easy to forget the city has its own stretch of sand, but a quick dip at Venice Lido is a great reviver after a day’s footslog.

Only 10 minutes by boat from St Mark’s, the beach isn’t the greatest but it’s a good place to relax. Afterwards, admire the grand Hotel des Bains and other Liberty-style buildings dating from when the Lido was a fashionable watering hole of European royalty.

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