shopping

When it’s time for shopping check out the Rotermann quarter (www.rotermannikaubamaja.ee), whereold industrial buildings have gained a sophisticated new lease of life and rub shoulders with striking modern architecture. Loovala is an open-plan craft studio and the place to find unusual gifts, accessories, art and jewellery – although getting a rocking chair made of bricks back on the plane is probably a souvenir too far! Bright hand-made knitwear and butter knives and bowls made from sweetly-scented juniper wood make excellent and more portable gifts.

Round the corner, and part of Rotermann, we discovered the equally fascinating Soviet Technology Exhibition, which reinvents itself each spring and is only open during the summer. Housed in a cavernous former grain store, household appliances, motorbikes, food packaging, clothes, leisure items and industrial equipment are among the eclectic exhibits.

Teenagers will love things such as the conference bike and these more off-beat attractions. However, Tallinn is not an obvious destination for younger children and best suited to couples and groups of friends. A big draw is its good value nightlife, much of it centred in the Old Town, and we spent an entertaining evening at Olde Hansa (www.oldehansa.ee). The candlelit restaurant serves hearty medieval-style dishes including wild boar, elk and even bear, although some Brits might be reluctant to try the latter. Huge plates of food were interspersed with beer, wine and rather questionable “medieval” shots served up by jovial staff in period attire. Set menus start at 35 euros a head, which is pricey for Tallinn but it’s a fun night out.

The many nearby watering holes include everything from atmospheric wine vaults and cellars to karaoke, sports and 70s-style retro bars. Try Viru beer, which comes in distinctive tall bottles, and other local brews.

This year is a particularly exciting time to visit the smallest Baltic state and one of northern Europe’s oldest capitals. To celebrate its European title, Tallinn is hosting one of the biggest cultural events in Estonia’s history with a host of special exhibitions, festivals and attractions on the theme, “Stories of the Seashore”, highlighting the legends and inspiration the sea has given to generations of Estonians. That said, there’s always plenty to see whenever you decide to visit and if you set off on a conference bike you’ll probably end up being the centre of attention.

tallinn facts

when to go

The main season runs from April to October and summer is pleasantly warm with long hours of daylight. Snow-covered Tallinn is beautiful in wintertime but it gets very cold.

getting there

Estonian Air (www.estonian-air.ee), easyJet (www.easyjet.com) and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) fly from London to Tallinn.

accommodation

For a luxury hotel near the Old Town try historic Hotel Schlössle (www.schloesslehotel.com) or Swissotel Tallinn (www.swissotel.com/tallinn), which has a spa. On Saaremaa, the modern Go Spa hotel is by the sea (www.gospa.ee).

tour operators

Baltic Holidays (www.balticholidays.com) features Tallinn short breaks, Estonia tours and spa holidays and Regent Holidays (www.regent-holidays.co.uk) offers city breaks and a Tallinn and islands tour.

getting around

The best way to enjoy Tallinn is on foot. The Tallinn Card, available at the Tourist Information Centre and starting at €12 for six hours, offers unlimited free public transport.

tourist information

Tallinn City Tourist Office: www.tourism.tallinn.ee Visit Estonia: www.visitestonia.com

All prices and details were correct when published in tlm - the travel & leisure magazine, please check before you travel to Tallinn.